Food Diaries: A Tale Of Two Sauces

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

To paraphrase Charles Dickens; “it’s been the best of times, and the worst of times,” at least as far as my recovery has gone, hopefully, the worst is behind me. For the next few weeks, I’ll be graduating to toddler bites and on to more adult food like pastas and sauces, which brings me to this next portion of the food diaries.

The two sauces that spring to mind and are most commonly used throughout western cuisine, are Alfredo and Mornay. Two basic white sauces with DNA directly linked to Béchamel sauce: one of “the five mother sauces” developed by 19th-century French chef Antonin Carême. Although they’re similar in texture and profile, it’s akin to comparing silk to velvet, while both are smooth, sensual and luxurious; much like the Gabor sisters in their prime, the complexity of their individual personalities set them apart. And of course, let’s not forget about their sultry southern European half sister, Tomato/Pomodoro, and her country cousin, Pesto, which actually, is not a sauce at all, it’s a salsa; a fresh aromatic blend of herbs, nuts and cheese that has been used as a main staple in Italian cooking since the ancient Romans.
The word pesta or pestare comes from the Latin, meaning to pound, or crush. The English root word is pestle, a word that references one of the oldest tools in civilization next to the knife, the pestle & mortar.

There are still purest, who, even today, prefer to use the old fashioned pestle and mortar instead of modern day appliances; well now you can color me lazy, but I’m a Gadget Girl, I prefer the convenience of a blender or food processor.  
If you don’t have the time to prepare these sauces from scratch, you can purchase the pre-made Alfredo, Pesto and Tomato Basil sauces at your local grocery store; Buitoni brand produces a good quality commercial version. But if you do have the time, it’s well worth the effort. I prepare them in batches and then freeze them in ice cube trays: each cube yields 1 oz or 2 tablespoons.

Stay tuned for more fun and adventure from the Food Diaries. 

Bon Apetite,


Béchamel:
I went straight to the source for this sauce, Mario Batali, famous renowned Italian chef, and guest Iron Chef  from the Food Network.
This sauce is traditionally used in Italian cooking to make lasagna. Once you’ve mastered Béchamel, all the other cream and cheese based sauces, are a piece of cake.
Ingredients
Roux
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

4 cups milk
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Preparation: Yields 4 cups
Roux: In a medium saucepan heat the butter over medium-low heat until melted. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Over medium heat, cook until the mixture turns a light, golden sandy color, about 6 to 7 minutes.
Sauce Base: Meanwhile, heat the milk in a separate pan until just about to boil (scald). Add the hot milk to the butter mixture 1 cup at a time, whisking continuously until very smooth. Bring to a boil. Cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly, then remove from heat. Season with salt and nutmeg, and set aside until ready to use.
Cooking & prep time: Approx 30 minutes

Alfredo:
I tweaked the recipe slightly by omitting the heavy cream and substituting with milk and cream cheese to make it more figure friendly.
Roux
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

4 cups milk
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon white pepper

1 clove garlic, grated
1 1/2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons cream cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
Cooking & prep time: Approx 30 minutes

Preparation: Yields 4 cups
Prepare the roux and sauce the same as you would for the Béchamel. Add garlic and Parmesan cheese. Stir in cream cheese at the very end, and finish with parsley.

Mornay:
Is a glorified Béchamel sauce with any combination of shredded cheese added, typically Gruyere and Parmesan; can be used for any recipe calling for a cheese sauce.

Ingredients:
Roux
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups hot milk
1/2 cup (2 ounces) shredded Gruyere or Swiss cheese
1/2 cup (2 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Dash ground nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 
Dash of cayenne pepper

Preparation: Yields 2 cups
Roux: In a medium saucepan heat the butter over medium-low heat until melted. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Over medium heat, cook until the mixture turns a light, golden sandy color, about 6 to 7 minutes.
Sauce Base: Meanwhile, heat the milk in a separate pan until just about to boil (scald). Add the hot milk to the butter mixture 1 cup at a time, whisking continuously until very smooth. Bring to a boil. Cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly, then remove from heat. Add seasoning.
Cooking & prep time: Approx 30 minutes

Tomato Basil/Pomodoro e Basilico
A classic Italian tomato sauce.  

Ingredients:
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
10 garlic cloves, grated
1/2 medium white onion grated
4 lbs. fresh, ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and thinly sliced (or use 6 cups of canned, whole tomatoes, with their juice, coarsely chopped)
Salt
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, torn by hand into small pieces (about 1/2") or ; roll the basil up like a cigar and slice into thin ribbons
pinch of red pepper flakes

Directions: Yields 4 cups
Put olive oil, onion, and all the garlic in a large skillet over a medium-high heat and cook until the onion and garlic begins to sizzle, but doesn't brown.
Add tomatoes and cook over a medium-high heat until the tomatoes have reduced and separated from the oil: about 15 minutes depending upon your skillet size. Season with salt.
When the sauce has reduced, add the basil leaves and red pepper flakes. Cook for 1-2 minutes then remove from the heat.
Serve at once over pasta with fresh grated Parmesan cheese.
Cooking & prep time: Approx 45 minutes

Pesto Sauce: Yields 4 cups
Basil is quiet possibly my favorite herb, I grow it so I can have it available year round; I use it in my vegetable juices as well. The sauce is typically made from basil, garlic, pine nuts, Parmesan/Romano cheese and olive oil. However, you can substitute different herbs, nuts and cheeses.
It’s ideal for pastas, as a spread, or to season eggs and soups.

4 cups basil leaves, well packed
4 cloves garlic, lightly crushed and peeled
1 cup pine nuts or walnuts (or a combination of the two)
1-1/2 cups freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino cheese (or a combination of the two)
1-1/2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
Directions:
Combine basil leaves and garlic in food processor or blender and process until leaves are finely chopped. Add nuts and cheese and process. With machine running, add olive oil in a slow, steady stream. Finish with salt and pepper to taste. If not using immediately, freeze in ice cube trays.
Prep Time: Approx 15 minutes

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